Board
This is two-sided copper plated board used to make a printed circuit.
Board_2
Board is scored with utility knife and a straight edge then snapped. Dimensions are 56mmX36mm.
Layout
Layout generated by the Eagle schematic program and printed.
Layout_2
Tape it to the board. Align the jacks with the edge and the electrolytic capacitors with the left edge. This is done with box tape or scotch tape.
Drill_1
Situate the board under the drill press. This is my homebuilt drillpress made from a cordless drill motor, a bottle jack and square tubing.
Drill_2
Drill the holes with a 0.9mm or smaller bit. I use a smaller one. The holes for the jacks need to be bigger, also those holes which will be accepting two leads, like the feedback and virtual ground output resistors.
Drill_3
Remove the layout diagram.
Drill_4
Debur the holes using a dremel and diamond studded bit.
etch1
Mark the traces with a permanent marker. Make sure you get plenty of ink on there, might need to go over some several times.
etch2
Here's what it looks like after marking the traces, bottom view.
etch3
Top view after marking out the traces.
etch4
Run some wire through one of the larger holes and put it down in the etchant tank. I use copper chloride etchant made from muriatic acid and copper oxide.
etch5
That's a hose from an aquarium air pump on the left. Agitation speeds up the process a lot. Leave it in there about half an hour.
Drill_5
The completed board after etching in the etch tank. The permanent marker ink is cleaned off with alcohol and a cotton swab.
Drill_6
Top view.
Populate_1
Populate the board with new parts.
Populate_2
Can you see the surface mount resistor? It's marked "222" for 2.2k ohms. This is for the LED.. Doing it like this makes more sense than trying to solder a resistor there and having it's lead sticking up ready to be twisted off during battery replacements.
Populate_3
Completely populated board. Note the length of the leads for the LED and positions.
Populate_4
Bottom. See how the battery leads are looped through holes in the board. This keeps them from being torn loose from their connections.
Fit_1
Position the board upside down under the tin and mark with a pencil.
Fit_2
See the pencil marks?
Fit_3
Using a dremel and a cutoff wheel, cut off the marked portions.
Fit_4
You might have to cut some more off the board after you get the holes in the tin for the jacks and the switch and can put it in there.
Fit_5
Situate the board in there and make pencil marks where the jacks are, make your marks on the top edge of the tin.
Fit_6
Now bring your marks on down in line with the marks you made on the top edge. Make a mark for the swittch, too.
Fit_7
Lay a jack nut on there about 1/16 inch from the lid and centered on the mark.
Fit_8
Make cross marks in the center of the nuts and you'll have these markings.
Fit_9
Use an awl and dimple the crosses.
Fit_10
Should look like this. Drill these 5/32 inch.
Fit_11
Ream out the holes with a reamer.
Fit 12
Ream until the jacks and switch just fit, no bigger, you may have to move the holes just a bit later.
Fit_13
Debur inside the holes with your cutoff wheel, it should be one of the thick ones.
Fit_14
Finish inside the holes with a diamond bit.
Fit_15
Lay the tin on a piece of thick cardboard and mark around the bottom closely with a mechanical pencil or very sharp pencil.( Hmm, looks like the batteries in my camera are getting weak. )
Fit_16
Put the cardboard in the tin, should be kinda tight.
Fit_17
Make your mark where the LED will go.
Fit_18
Remove the board. Start a hole in there with an awl, go all the way through. Make the hole only as big as it needs to be for your LED. The LED I'm using for this build is 5mm, so I had to use other tapered tools and keep working up to the right size.
Fit_19
The LED should be a nice slide fit. Glue it with ONE drop of superglue from the INSIDE. Too much glue in the wrong place will make your LED look bad. That's it, you're done